Game November to January
November to January
During late November and early December the first rains arrive and Mombo is literally transformed overnight. This is one of Botswana's best kept secrets; the habitat is simply stunning and the feeling of relief amongst the animals is tangible - the long hard dry months come to an end, the waterholes fill up and the new shoots spring up through the dusty, pached plains - if ever the animals are happiest it is now!
This is the time of new life in the Okavango as many species start
the birthing season. New born impala, zebra, tssessebe to name a
few are everywhere; guests often see day old calves taking their
first steps. The vast numbers of new born in this synchronised
birthing period maximises their chances of adulthood as the
predators are literally spoilt for choice - it is a great time of
year to see the predators. Birdlife also comes to life as many
species begin breeding and nesting.
There is no doubt that this is an incredibly beautiful time of
year to be in the Okavango. Stunning changing skies are coupled
with lush green grasslands and clear light; photographers flock to
the area at this time to see the contrasting lights and skies with
the added bonus of capturing the fascinating change in the
game.
Newsletter - November
Climate and Weather
November has seen the start of the summer rains. After the
breathless, hot anticipation of October, the heavens finally opened
in the second week of the month, and we had a phenomenal deluge -
110mm (4½ inches) of rain fell in twelve hours - approximately one
quarter of our average annual precipitation in just one night!
Since then we have had several less dramatic rain showers, and in
total now we have had a third of the rain we would expect in a
typical year at Mombo. To have so much rainfall early in the summer
is of course unusual, and in previous years when this has happened,
we have then had a long period without significant rain, followed
eventually by late rains in February and March; that is now the
pattern we are expecting this year.
The rains have completely transformed Mombo. One very noticeable
change this month has been a significant reduction in average
temperatures, caused by the number of cooler, cloudier days we have
had. Often though we experience our hottest days just after rain,
when the dust has been washed out of the air, and the sun's rays
reach northern Botswana in full force.
Environment and Ecology
Many parts of our concession are almost unrecognisable now; such
has been the transformation that has occurred with the onset of the
rains. Dry, sandy areas have turned green overnight, as though
painted with sweeping strokes - countless small plants have
sprouted, rejoicing in the sudden availability of water, and a
verdant carpet has spread across wide areas of once bare
sand.
In the acacia woodlands, pans that were dry and cracked have
become oases of life as they have filled with water again. This
sudden profusion of water means that animals are no longer so
dependent on the channels and floodplains, and can now spread
further afield. These oases are a gift to the wading and diving
birds which have flocked to them, including Dabchicks and Painted
Snipe - flickers of colour darting across the muddy waters.
Grasses and trees everywhere are shining with a new lustre of
life. Newly washed zebras contrast beautifully with the greenery in
the lush meadows, and elephants now come in three shades of grey as
they wade through channels in the gentle rain - dark wet feet, dry
dove-grey flanks, and medium-grey, medium wet backs.
The rains have had a reviving effect on every aspect of life at
Mombo. They illustrate the synchronicity of Nature's plan for the
Delta perfectly: just as the last floodwaters dry up, and the last
hapless barbel are speared by Yellow-billed Storks, the clouds
gather, thunder drums across the sky like the hooves of running
zebras, and then the flash of forked lightning unzips the clouds
and down comes the rain. This brilliantly dove-tailed change in the
seasons achieves a balance and precision that no watchmaker ever
could, and ensures the ongoing survival of this area as a perfect
haven for wildlife and humans alike.
New Life
The onset of the rains not only revives the vegetation and
animals, but it is also the signal for an incredible explosion of
new life. Termites are perhaps the first to respond, as their
mounds erupt with clouds of potential kings and queens, taking to
the air to search for mates and then begin new termite colonies.
This nuptial flight represents a bounty for birds especially (and
for birdwatchers too) as Marabou Storks, Yellow-billed Kites,
Bateleurs, and even Fish Eagles gather to swoop on the millions of
termites. Those that aren't taken in the air must run the gauntlet
of mice, jackals, and baboons, and in some parts of Botswana,
humans too: the termites are fried to make a delicious protein-rich
snack. Anybody hungry?!
This week we have seen the first baby tsessebe and impala, the
forerunners of a great tide of new antelope life set to break over
Mombo any day now. In a further demonstration of impeccable timing,
thousands of baby impalas will be born as the rains begin, and all
of them within just a two-week period. This inundation of babies is
designed to swamp the predators - many of them will fall prey to
leopards, hyaenas, and even baboons, but many more will survive.
The first few babies have taken their initial uncertain steps in
the world, fur still wet from the womb, following the gentle calls
of their mothers as they guide them away from danger. To watch the
first moments of a new life is an incredibly heart-warming,
affirming experience. No matter how many times we see a brand-new
impala lamb, it is impossible not to be moved by its determination
to keep up with the herd and to survive.
Lions
Of course the sudden profusion of new life is something of a
bonanza for the predators of Mombo, and they have been very much in
evidence this month. We have been trying to establish just how many
lions we have in the area, and we think the number, including new
nomadic lions, is over 90 now. This includes the mighty, 27-strong
Mathatha Pride, with the four territorial males known as Bob Marley
and the Wailers for their matted manes. The "missing" lions knowing
as the Old Trails Pride have now reappeared to the east of Mombo,
and six of their eight cubs have survived to the age of eight or
nine months old to ensure the survival of our most elusive
pride.
Even in these numbers, the lions don't get everything their own
way, and some of our guests spent a spell-binding morning watching
interaction between the big cats and a herd of buffalo. At one
point, a buffalo cow had two lions on her back, but she valiantly
struggled back towards the herd who came to her rescue. The lions
hung on until the last moment, before giving up and dropping off
their chosen victim, who lived to fight another day - there was no
kill that morning.
Leopards
Logadima's mother, the Tortillis female, produced two cubs in
very late October - a very exciting event, and we had high hopes
that these twins would be as successful as their big sister, now
fully grown, and who seems to be taking up residence in the Bird
Island area. However, at just a few days old, these tiny,
defenceless cubs vanished. We saw the mother return to the place
where she had hidden them while she went hunting, and heard her
calling for them in an increasingly plaintive voice, until it
became all too apparent that they had disappeared, possibly killed
by a hyaena, although we will never know. With the exception of
Logadima, the Tortillis female has lost every other cub she has
had, and it seems particularly cruel that she should now suffer a
further, double tragedy.
Camp and Guest Experience
Mombo is such a beautiful camp that even a rainy day cannot
dampen spirits here. We have all become adept at cloud watching and
picking the right days for our legendary "bush brunch" picnics, and
traditional boma evenings, when guests can experience the rich
musical and dance traditions of the Tswana people, and sample the
delights of Botswana's traditional cooking (minus the termites, of
course!).
This month we finally saw an advance copy of 'Elephant in the
Kitchen' - Craig's long-awaited Mombo cookery book. Much more than
a recipe book, it is the story of all his adventures (and one or
two misadventures) over more than five years at Mombo, and how the
natural beauty we are all marinated in every day has shaped his
unique cooking style, infused with the flavours of a continent and
of one very magical organic pantry - the Okavango Delta.
We invite you all to come and share in this feast with us... and
here are the experiences of a few of the friends who have drunk
deep from the cup of plenty with us this month in paradise... A
cornucopia of delights awaits!
Mombo Newsletter - December
December has been an elephantine month at Mombo and Little Mombo
in every sense, a wonderful finale to the year, with mammoth
amounts of all that makes this part of the Okavango Delta so very
special: incredible wildlife moments, warm hospitality, stunning
scenery, and a real air of celebration. Oh, and the elephants
themselves! We have seen more of them here this month than ever
before, which is unusual because once the rains begin they usually
disperse into the mopane woodlands further south along Chief's
Island. During the last few weeks however we have had several large
breeding herds in the area - watching them come down to a
waterhole, their excitement evident, and then drinking and
splashing in the water, is a wonderful experience. The youngest
elephants are still figuring out how to use their trunks and
sometimes have to kneel down to get their mouths to the water.
Older elephants delight in spraying mud over their backs or trying
to roll over in the water, cavorting in a way that belies their
immense size and pensive nature.
Splashes of colour are everywhere - from the brilliant molten gold
and ruby flowers of the flame lilies in the palm bushes, to the
stunning rainbows caused by the late afternoon sun being refracted
through a million droplets of water left suspended in the air after
a tropical shower. The predominant colour remains green - a vivid
emerald lime-mint-frog-green, beaded with mercury-like drops of dew
in the early mornings before the rising sun burns off the dawn
mists. The pale buff shapes stepping uncertainly into this verdant
wonderland are newborn wildebeest calves.. Tiny warthog piglets
rocket through the grass, exuberantly exhibiting the sheer joy of
being alive at such a wonderful time of year. A green paradise;
they could not have asked for a better place to be born.
December's temperatures have been cooler than we might normally
expect at this time of year, due to cloud cover on some days.
However, we have had some very hot days following rain, once the
clouds had dispersed. Temperatures ranged from maximum 35°C (100°F)
to as low as 16°C (62°F). We have not had nearly as much rain as in
November, but we did experience considerable rainfall on several
occasions. With perfect timing, the majority of the 83.7mm (3.30
inches) of rain we received in December fell at night, and so
barely interrupted game drives or meals at all.
The sudden profusion of baby impalas has been a huge boon to many
of our predators, and the leopards in particular have been exacting
a heavy toll on these tiny antelopes. Logadima, the young female
leopard we know best, and who first graduated to killing her own
impala only a few months ago, has been practicing her hunting
techniques on the unsuspecting impala lambs.
In November we discovered to everyone's delight that the Tortillis
Female, Logadima's mother, had two new cubs. Sadly these twins
disappeared within a few weeks, and were feared dead. A veteran
Mombo guide, returning to visit his old haunts, suspected
otherwise, and some diligent detective work located one surviving
twin. We were naturally overjoyed at this cub's "resurrection", but
this was short-lived: the very next day, the Tortillis Female was
seen in the same place, calling over and over again, increasingly
plaintively, for her cub. There was no response. It now seems that
she has lost seven of the eight cubs she has given birth to, with
Logadima the only one so far to make it to adulthood. These long
odds against survival only go to show that even a supreme survivor
like the leopard can have a tough time of it against all the forces
of Nature in what Darwin called the "dreadful but quiet war? going
on in the peaceful woods, and smiling fields."
Another major predator of impalas is the wild dog - in fact at
Mombo they seem to eat nothing else. There is perhaps no safari
experience that is the equal of "running with the pack," the
adrenaline-soaked thrill of following wild dogs on a hunt as they
lope effortlessly along, looking to startle impalas in the long
grass. Now that the local pack?s two puppies are able to play a
more active role in the hunt, the number of kills they are notching
up is truly impressive. One routine airstrip transfer turned out to
be anything but (to be honest, the only thing routine at Mombo is
the extraordinary). The dogs were hunting very close to Camp, and
the adults soon killed one impala, which they left for the puppies
to eat (typical of the dogs' co-operative attitude to life) while
they ran down a second one for themselves. All of this in a blur of
yellow, brown, black and white splotches, Mickey Mouse ears, and
the abrupt sneezing alarm calls of impalas facing destiny.
Dinner at Little Mombo was badly delayed one evening early in the
month, when the chef came into the dining room to make an
announcement. No, not to ask the guests to come to the table, but
to inform them that a lion had just walked past! We watched from
the deck as not one but seven lionesses walked past, followed by 17
cubs, and then the four big males known as Bob Marley and the
Wailers. The females were clearly intent on hunting, their lean
bodies emanating concentration. In the dry channel bed stood a
small group of zebras, unaware of the havoc that was about to be
unleashed. As the lionesses slunk into position in the palm
islands, hunger got the better of the males, and they charged
headlong into the zebras. For anyone who has ever marvelled at the
passivity of a resting lion, to see them run is an education. The
males ruined the ambush of course, and missed all the adult zebras.
One, however, collided with a zebra foal, and it was all over. The
males demolished this insubstantial meal in minutes, refusing to
share with even the cubs.
Another moment of high drama resulted from a zebra's birthing
difficulties. She was clearly struggling to deliver, and had been
for some time. Suddenly, to everyone's surprise, she dropped dead.
While the guests on the game drive were still absorbing what they
had just witnessed, a lioness flashed past, a tawny missile in the
long grass, in hot pursuit of warthog piglets. A male strolled
after her, hoping to pirate her kill, and couldn't believe his luck
when he stumbled over the newly-dead zebra. When the lioness
returned a few minutes later, having caught one piglet, she found
all her companions around the zebra, haunches shifting as they
jockeyed for position.
The reintroduced rhinos continue to provide wonderful safari
moments, too. At the very end of November, our monitoring team set
out to look for one female who had not been seen since parting
company with her regular companion a few days earlier. Often this
is a sign of an impending birth, and this in combination with her
vast girth and general lethargy when last seen, suggested that
another calf was on the way.
The clincher though was seeing a white stork in the road on the
way to the area where the female rhino was believed to be. This
beautiful bird had found its way to Mombo from southern Europe,
storm-tossed across seas, and blown in sand-storms across deserts.
European folklore has it that these birds deliver human babies, so
why not a rhino baby? Sure enough, that day the female rhino was
located, with a tiny male calf, born just four or five days
earlier, and as cute as a button! This was our eighth birth as a
result of the joint Wilderness Safaris / Botswana Government
reintroduction programme and means that almost a quarter of our
white rhinos were born here, rather than being released from the
bomas - a great achievement.
The highlight was undoubtedly our celebrations for Christmas. The
lack of snow did not detract in any way from the unique atmosphere
of Christmas in the bush, thorny dry acacia branches hung with
traditional beaded ornaments and strung with tiny silver lights
formed our tree, and the table was decorated with feathery wild
asparagus and very cute wire animals. Craig and his team in the
kitchen, fresh from the triumphant launch of the Mombo cookbook,
'Elephant in the Kitchen' in Johannesburg, pulled out all the
stops: From salmon mousse à la Monty Python to a lavish Christmas
main course weaving together the very best of European heritage
with more than a soupcon of African magic, it was the meal of the
year.
Christmas Day itself seemed appropriately wintry, even in the
middle of summer. A cool, cloudy day, but none of that could
detract from the excitement and happiness of the day. The morning's
game drives terminated not at the Camp, but at a secret location in
the bush, where tables had been set under the soaring branches of
tall trees, arching over the feast like the vaults of a cathedral
nave. The tinge of wood smoke blowing across the clearing as
pancakes cooked in a pan over an open fire, and the unmistakable
aroma of bubbling chocolate Amarula sauce.
As the guests sat down to their picnic lunch, a lioness strolled
out of cover across the floodplains beyond the trees. She was
closely followed by one of the Wailers, the dominant male lions at
Mombo: A magnificent animal, his dark mane rippling in the breeze.
And so we were eyewitnesses as another "honeymoon couple" mated in
the shade of the tsaro palms - there cannot be many people on Earth
who had such a dramatic show during their Christmas lunch!
Meanwhile, at Little Mombo, Steve's fascinating PhD research into
the Meyer's Parrot continues and he has begun to unravel some of
the mysteries of how they select a nest site, and why they
hybridise so readily with other southern African parrot
species.
November has seen the start of the summer rains. After the
breathless, hot anticipation of October, the heavens finally opened
in the second week of the month, and we had a phenomenal deluge -
110mm (4½ inches) of rain fell in twelve hours - approximately one
quarter of our average annual precipitation in just one night!
Since then we have had several less dramatic rain showers, and in
total now we have had a third of the rain we would expect in a
typical year at Mombo. To have so much rainfall early in the summer
is of course unusual, and in previous years when this has happened,
we have then had a long period without significant rain, followed
eventually by late rains in February and March; that is now the
pattern we are expecting this year.
The rains have completely transformed Mombo. One very noticeable
change this month has been a significant reduction in average
temperatures, caused by the number of cooler, cloudier days we have
had. Often though we experience our hottest days just after rain,
when the dust has been washed out of the air, and the sun's rays
reach northern Botswana in full force.
Environment and Ecology
Many parts of our concession are almost unrecognisable now; such
has been the transformation that has occurred with the onset of the
rains. Dry, sandy areas have turned green overnight, as though
painted with sweeping strokes - countless small plants have
sprouted, rejoicing in the sudden availability of water, and a
verdant carpet has spread across wide areas of once bare
sand.
In the acacia woodlands, pans that were dry and cracked have
become oases of life as they have filled with water again. This
sudden profusion of water means that animals are no longer so
dependent on the channels and floodplains, and can now spread
further afield. These oases are a gift to the wading and diving
birds which have flocked to them, including Dabchicks and Painted
Snipe - flickers of colour darting across the muddy waters.
Grasses and trees everywhere are shining with a new lustre of
life. Newly washed zebras contrast beautifully with the greenery in
the lush meadows, and elephants now come in three shades of grey as
they wade through channels in the gentle rain - dark wet feet, dry
dove-grey flanks, and medium-grey, medium wet backs.
The rains have had a reviving effect on every aspect of life at
Mombo. They illustrate the synchronicity of Nature's plan for the
Delta perfectly: just as the last floodwaters dry up, and the last
hapless barbel are speared by Yellow-billed Storks, the clouds
gather, thunder drums across the sky like the hooves of running
zebras, and then the flash of forked lightning unzips the clouds
and down comes the rain. This brilliantly dove-tailed change in the
seasons achieves a balance and precision that no watchmaker ever
could, and ensures the ongoing survival of this area as a perfect
haven for wildlife and humans alike.
New Life
The onset of the rains not only revives the vegetation and
animals, but it is also the signal for an incredible explosion of
new life. Termites are perhaps the first to respond, as their
mounds erupt with clouds of potential kings and queens, taking to
the air to search for mates and then begin new termite colonies.
This nuptial flight represents a bounty for birds especially (and
for birdwatchers too) as Marabou Storks, Yellow-billed Kites,
Bateleurs, and even Fish Eagles gather to swoop on the millions of
termites. Those that aren't taken in the air must run the gauntlet
of mice, jackals, and baboons, and in some parts of Botswana,
humans too: the termites are fried to make a delicious protein-rich
snack. Anybody hungry?!
This week we have seen the first baby tsessebe and impala, the
forerunners of a great tide of new antelope life set to break over
Mombo any day now. In a further demonstration of impeccable timing,
thousands of baby impalas will be born as the rains begin, and all
of them within just a two-week period. This inundation of babies is
designed to swamp the predators - many of them will fall prey to
leopards, hyaenas, and even baboons, but many more will survive.
The first few babies have taken their initial uncertain steps in
the world, fur still wet from the womb, following the gentle calls
of their mothers as they guide them away from danger. To watch the
first moments of a new life is an incredibly heart-warming,
affirming experience. No matter how many times we see a brand-new
impala lamb, it is impossible not to be moved by its determination
to keep up with the herd and to survive.
Lions
Of course the sudden profusion of new life is something of a
bonanza for the predators of Mombo, and they have been very much in
evidence this month. We have been trying to establish just how many
lions we have in the area, and we think the number, including new
nomadic lions, is over 90 now. This includes the mighty, 27-strong
Mathatha Pride, with the four territorial males known as Bob Marley
and the Wailers for their matted manes. The "missing" lions knowing
as the Old Trails Pride have now reappeared to the east of Mombo,
and six of their eight cubs have survived to the age of eight or
nine months old to ensure the survival of our most elusive
pride.
Even in these numbers, the lions don't get everything their own
way, and some of our guests spent a spell-binding morning watching
interaction between the big cats and a herd of buffalo. At one
point, a buffalo cow had two lions on her back, but she valiantly
struggled back towards the herd who came to her rescue. The lions
hung on until the last moment, before giving up and dropping off
their chosen victim, who lived to fight another day - there was no
kill that morning.
Leopards
Logadima's mother, the Tortillis female, produced two cubs in very
late October - a very exciting event, and we had high hopes that
these twins would be as successful as their big sister, now fully
grown, and who seems to be taking up residence in the Bird Island
area. However, at just a few days old, these tiny, defenceless cubs
vanished. We saw the mother return to the place where she had
hidden them while she went hunting, and heard her calling for them
in an increasingly plaintive voice, until it became all too
apparent that they had disappeared, possibly killed by a hyaena,
although we will never know. With the exception of Logadima, the
Tortillis female has lost every other cub she has had, and it seems
particularly cruel that she should now suffer a further, double
tragedy.
Camp and Guest Experience
Mombo is such a beautiful camp that even a rainy day cannot dampen
spirits here. We have all become adept at cloud watching and
picking the right days for our legendary "bush brunch" picnics, and
traditional boma evenings, when guests can experience the rich
musical and dance traditions of the Tswana people, and sample the
delights of Botswana's traditional cooking (minus the termites, of
course!).
This month we finally saw an advance copy of 'Elephant in the
Kitchen' - Craig's long-awaited Mombo cookery book. Much more than
a recipe book, it is the story of all his adventures (and one or
two misadventures) over more than five years at Mombo, and how the
natural beauty we are all marinated in every day has shaped his
unique cooking style, infused with the flavours of a continent and
of one very magical organic pantry - the Okavango Delta.
We invite you all to come and share in this feast with us... and
here are the experiences of a few of the friends who have drunk
deep from the cup of plenty with us this month in paradise... A
cornucopia of delights awaits!